What is the path like? Information on the kind of terrains to expect on Camino. Expand All the routes are varied, from footpath to metalled highway. Some of the footpaths are gravelled, some remain deep mud, some are strewn with boulders. Some road stretches remain (though local authorities along the Camino francés have made big efforts to create separate pilgrim footpaths alongside the highway). The pass over the Pyrenees from St Jean-Pied-de-Port reaches 1400 m, as do the Montes de León and the pass at O Cebreiro. For the height profiles of the le Puy route, the Paris route, the Camino francés, and the Via de la Plata, click here. The southern part of the Via de la Plata follows the old roman road from Seville to Astorga. Many sections of it are exposed; you cross several roman bridges, and the many of the roman mile-stones are still visible. The standard waymarks on all the Spanish routes are yellow arrows, painted on walls, trees, telegraph poles and rocks. They are generally plentiful, and it's hard to get lost. Sometimes you will see the standard Camino de Santiago shell symbol as a sign or tile, or local variants of this. The standard waymarkers on the routes in France are the Grande Randonnée red and white stripes, as here:
I have difficulty with hills Advice for pilgrims who struggle with elevation. Expand There is no route which completely avoids hills. If you really are unable to manage any kind of elevation then the Camino might not be for you. Careful planning would be required using a good guidebook, website or app, to arrange alternative transport for the hilly sections. Remember, you can skip sections if you need to. The only rule (if you wanted the Certificado or Compostela is that you walk the last 100km and prove it by collecting two stamps a day in your pilgrim passport). The flattest final stretch would probably be the Camino Portugués. If starting at Tui or Valença or Baiona, where you'd encounter fewer hills than any of the other 100km start points. For basic profile maps on all routes:http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es/ Please note that the CSJ has the St Christopher Fund to help with expenses for a companion to travel with elderly or frail pilgrims who need this kind of support. Contact us for more details if you think that this may help you.
What is the food like on Camino? The Camino cuisine! Expand If you stay in albergues, you will usually eat in bars or restaurants, although a few albergues offer a communal breakfast or dinner. Use a guidebook to plan ahead for places to eat or shop for food. Don’t forget bars often don’t open until 8 or 9 am and shops will be closed from lunchtime until late afternoon. It is best to carry a small quantity of food that doesn’t need refrigeration - choose from fresh or dried fruit, nuts, cereal bars, bread, cheese, tinned sardines - to eat as snacks or as a makeshift breakfast or picnic lunch in case bars or shops are closed when you walk past. Some albergues have kitchens open to pilgrims but can be poorly equipped with utensils; it is best to check the facilities before planning what to cook and shopping for ingredients. Also you may discover items left by other pilgrims which you can use, like open packets of rice or pasta. There are supermarkets in the larger towns, but the shops in small villages will have a more limited choice of foodstuffs. You are likely to find variants on the following in the bars and restaurants along the Camino Francés: Breakfast - Bread/toast with jam, pastries, churros (long fried doughnuts), coffee, tea, hot chocolate, fruit juice. Lunch/snacks - Tortilla (egg and potato flan), salad, bocadillos (baguette-style rolls with various fillings, usually cheese or ham), soup, empanada (a square piece of a large pie, usually filled with tuna or cod in tomato sauce). Or if you are very hungry, have the 3 course menú del día available from 2 pm onwards. Dinner - Menú del Peregrino - 3 course set meal, very similar to menú del día. Here is an idea of what choices you may be offered, sometimes there is a choice of dishes, sometimes not. Starters: Soup (lentil, garlic, bean), mixed salad, pasta with tomato sauce, vegetables which can include menestra de verduras (a sort of stew or thick soup), green beans or peas with garlic and ham or chorizo, vegetables in season, such as asparagus.. Mains: Meat (Chicken, beef - usually stew, pork, meatballs, sausage, chorizo, lamb, rabbit), eggs, fish (trout, hake, salmon, tuna), usually served with chips or sometimes boiled potatoes. Desserts: Yoghurt, various custard-style desserts (cuajada, natillas, flan), ice cream, fresh or tinned fruit, rice pudding, cakes, cheesecake, The menú del peregrino usually includes bread and either wine or water, and is served from around 7pm to ensure tired pilgrims can be back in their bunks for 10pm lights out. If you are having a rest day and are staying somewhere other than a refugio, you can treat yourself to dinner or tapas at the more conventional 9pm onwards and enjoy a wider selection of food. There are a lot of traditional local dishes to try if you get the opportunity: Pamplona & Navarra - pimientos de piquillo (long red peppers), white beans, chistorra sausage, trout, cuajada (sweetened creamy cheese traditionally made from ewe’s milk), pacharán (fruit/anise liqueur). Basque Country - pintxos small tapa-like plates of local meat, seafood and vegetable delicacies; txakoli the Basque wine. Logroňo - famous for tapas bars, Rioja wine. Burgos - morcilla blood sausage Astorga and La Maragatería region - cocido maragato (a stew of many different pork cuts, traditionally separated after cooking and served meat first, followed by vegetable and chickpeas and finally noodle soup made from the broth). Astorga is famous for its chocolate. Galicia - caldo gallego (a filling stew/soup of greens, potato and meat), tarta santiago almond cake, pulpo a la gallega (octopus served on potatoes with paprika), creamy white cheeses, pimientos de padrón (small green peppers served fried),some sweet and some fiery, bacalao (salt cod), steaks, cider.
What is a typical day on the Camino like? There is no one way of doing the Camino, but there is a traditional daily routine! Expand Hopefully, there is no such thing as a typical day on the Camino! But the traditional daily route expects that the pilgrim will start walking early; on average setting off at about 7am. They do this for two reasons: firstly to avoid the heat of the day (typically around 3pm), and secondly because they can get a good 6 or 7 hours of walking in and still arrive at their final destination for the day by early afternoon, giving them time to rest, shower, do laundry, explore their surroundings, find food and meet other pilgrims. The usual lunch time for Spaniards is about 3pm, so this is a good time to hit the local bars and restaurants too. If you're not booking your accommodation in advance, there is an additional advantage to setting off earlier. Many of the albergues will open in the early afternoon, so if you plan your arrival for then, you'll be among the first in the queue for a bed.
Is there a minimum distance? The minimum mileages for pilgrims who want the 'Compostela'. Expand To qualify for the Compostela, pilgrims must walk at least the last 100km into Santiago. The distance required for horseriders is 100 km and cyclists 200 km. Pilgrims should remember to obtain 2 stamps per day in their credencial or pilgrim record over the final 100/200 km distance. A certificado is available for those who arrive at Santiago as pilgrims, but not meeting the Cathedral's requirements for the compostela i.e. pilgrims without religious or spiritual motivation. In addition to the Compostela or certificado, the pilgrim office in Santiago now also issues an additional Certificate of Distance to those pilgrims who would like this. It costs 3€ and records the route which the pilgrim walked, the starting point, the amount of kilometres and the date of arrival in Santiago.
Phones and internet Advice about taking your mobiles, SIM cards and accessing the internet while on Camino. Expand Spain has good mobile coverage, so it is easy to stay in touch via phone. Don’t forget to make sure your phone will work overseas. If in any doubt, check with your provider. You can either use the phone via roaming on your current network (you will need to activate roaming on your phone at least a week before you go or via a prepaid Global SIM card or via a Spanish SIM card to save on costs. The most cost-effective option will depend on whether you make a lot of local calls (local SIM is probably better) or international calls (Global SIM or roaming will probably be cheaper). WiFi is readily available most of the way along the Camino, from bars, restaurants and albergues. Keeping in touch via email, or Skype or WhatsApp may be cheaper than texting or calling.
What is the weather like? The sort of weather to expect on Camino, depending on area and time of year. Expand The weather is unpredictable most of the year, so you should be prepared for rain (particularly in Galicia), day-time heat and cold nights, especially at high altitude. The summer months can be extremely hot, especially on the meseta, the high and very exposed plain between Burgos and León on the Camino Francés, and on the more southerly sections of the Via de la Plata. Seville is especially hot, with summertime temperatures in the 30s and regularly reaching the high 20s in May and October. See our publication "The Winter Pilgrim" for advice on doing the Camino in winter months. French weather forecasts Spanish weather forecasts Portuguese weather forecasts For a truly formidable array of weather information covering most of Europe, though especially Spain - visit web weather archive site. And visit the Pilgrim forum for up-to-the-minute exchanges about the weather.
What should I take on the Camino? A suggested packing list for things our members have taken on their Caminos and found useful. Expand This is a very subjective and much debated area, though the basic rules of thumb are always: if in doubt, leave it out! aim to carry not much more than 10-15% of your body weight Below we give a suggested list of the sort of kit that our members have taken in the past and have found useful. But do also visit the Pilgrim forum run by Ivar Rekve for the current conversation about equipment. And don’t forget, CSJ members are offered 10% discount by Cotswold Outdoor (please contact the Office for the discount code if you don’t have this included in your welcome pack). Main equipment Rucksack: 35–60 litres, depending on how much kit you need to carry. Make sure all straps are adjustable and well-fitted to your own hips and shoulders: there are different designs for men and women. Go to a specialist shop where they will give you good advice and load it with the appropriate weight to test it properly. Note that it’s not the capacity that matters so much as the weight you put into it. A waterproof cover is sometimes included, this is a useful item to have if you don’t have a poncho – see waterproof gear below. Water-Resistant liner bag for your rucksack. You can buy these very cheaply but the more you pay the sturdier/waterproof/sealable they are likely to be. Alternatively, you could buy a selection of folding dry bags which are guaranteed waterproof even in immersion. It is much easier to keep your kit organised using a variety of these smaller bags, and smelly dirty or damp washing can be sealed up away from clean clothes. Another possibility is a rucksack protector bag (to secure and protect your rucksack during air travel), some of these can be used as a water-resistant liner and some as rain covers. Lightweight sturdy boots or walking shoes. What you choose is up to personal preference, but we would definitely suggest boots if going in winter, late autumn or early spring, or over very rough terrain, or if you have ankle problems. Some people don’t like wearing Goretex boots in hot, dusty conditions. Again, go to a specialist shop for advice and fitting. A good shop will allow you to take boots home for a few days to wear around the house, though not outdoors, and take them back if you’re not happy with them. Don’t be tempted to buy boots that don’t quite fit because they are cheap! Socks: One pair, two pairs, liner socks under walking socks, lined socks, toe socks… there is an endless choice of combinations and types, take advice when you buy your boots. One point to remember, lined socks can take longer to dry than 2 separate pairs. Sleeping bag and/or liner: (at many times of the year a sleeping bag liner is enough – all hostels will have blankets at least). 1 season sleeping bags are fine for summer months, but 2, 3 or even 4 season bags will be needed for cooler months, check with the retailer if you need advice. Choose the lightest weight sleeping bag you can afford. Sleeping bag liners are usually cotton or silk. Good waterproof gear: light poncho or rain jacket for the summer, a more windproof jacket if walking in winter. Waterproof trousers optional, particularly in summer months. Stick or walking poles: Buy fully adjustable poles or from a specialist shop so these can be fitted to you. Remember some people use neither, or buy a stick in the first few days of their pilgrimage (most airlines will not let you take these in the cabin). Reflective vest: If you are cycling or walking on roads in darkness or poor visibility, wearing a reflective vest compliant with standard EN471 is a legal requirement in Spain. Reflective clothing or backpack covers are also a good idea in hunting season. Lightweight reflective vests are very cheap – they can be purchased in the UK very cheaply, and are readily available in garages and supermarkets in Spain. The following lists are suggestions only and should be adapted to the seasons and to your own needs and preferences. Some people advise carrying no more than 10-15% of your own body weight. Remember to take account of your day’s supplies, especially water (1 litre of water weighs 1kg). You should be able to get your base weight (i.e. without the day’s food and water but including the rucksack itself) down to 7-10 kg. If you are planning to camp or wish to carry an emergency tent on some of the less developed routes, you will need to factor in the weight of a lightweight tent, sleeping mat, camping gaz stove (go for the standard #C206 190g cylinder type, since the fancier styles aren’t available in Spain), and cooking/eating utensils. Clothing There are many types of high-tech shirts and underwear available, most very quick drying. Newer to the outdoor market are those made from merino wool or that have silver threads woven into them, which are claimed to absorb body odours for up to three weeks. You ought to have no trouble in washing clothes daily although wet weather can cause problems in getting things dry. Summer Clothing List – in addition to main equipment listed above: 2- 4 pairs walking socks, or 2 pairs thick socks, 4 liner socks 3 sets underwear 2 pairs walking trousers or shorts (lightweight zip-off trousers give you plenty of options) 3 shirts or t-shirts (lightweight long-sleeved shirts protect against the sun). Maybe something to sleep in – t-shirt and underwear do for most people, but you could take very light weight cotton or silk pyjamas. 1 or 2 thicker layers such as long-sleeve fleece jersey or jacket Some kind of UV protection like a hat or buff 1 pair lightweight flip flops for showering and/or crocs/sandals for evenings Winter Clothing List – in addition to main equipment listed above: 2- 4 pairs walking socks, or 3 pairs thick socks, 4 liner socks 3 sets underwear. Consider taking some long base layer pants or runners’ tights 2 pairs walking trousers 3 long sleeved base layer t-shirts Maybe something to sleep in – but the base layer long underwear and t-shirts would be ideal A selection of long-sleeved fleece jerseys or jackets or technical over shirts to make a selection of warm layers Lightweight down jacket for keeping warm when not walking Fleece or wool cap Scarf or buff Waterproof gloves Bedsocks Gaiters for walking in deep mud or snow 1 pair lightweight flip flops for showering and lightweight shoes or sandals for evenings Emergency bivvy bag Miscellaneous Passport, EHIC card or its equivalent, travel insurance documents, travel tickets, pilgrim record/credencial, credit cards, money, etc in a waterproof pouch and/or secure money belt. Make sure that emergency contact details are recorded in your passport and/or pilgrim record Whistle (if you are walking alone and/or on one of the less-frequented routes or in winter) Basic toiletries to suit your own needs (remember soap can double up as detergent!) Be sure to check airline rules on liquids, aerosols and sharp objects if carried as hand luggage. Even if not travelling by air, hand luggage size toiletry containers save weight Medicines, prescription or over-the-counter, to suit your own needs (This could include Compeed for blisters, a length of Elastoplast that you can cut to the required size for small injuries, Vaseline or similar for anti-blister lubrication, insect repellent, antiseptic cream, sun cream, painkillers and antihistamines). Every village in Spain has a well-stocked Farmacia but note it might be more expensive. Towel (preferably a small microfibre towel) Water bottle, min 1litre (consider the value of an aluminium one, which can double as a hot-water bottle, if walking in cooler seasons). Some safety pins (useful if you need to dry your socks etc. on your rucksack as you walk along) Needle and thread for sock repairs etc Mobile phone (essential if you are walking alone and/or on one of the less-frequented routes or in winter) and useful as an alarm clock/camera/compass/map etc Sunglasses are useful to have Guide book (essential on less-frequented routes) Small plastic bottle of detergent for washing your clothes – top it up as and when you get the chance – or use your soap instead Very small torch or headtorch as a light source first thing in the morning – many pilgrims choose to set off before sunrise Notebook/diary & pen – personal choice Camera – if not using phone Chargers for electronic devices and plug adapter Pocket dictionary/phrasebook if needed Plastic spoon or spork for picnic lunches or albergue cold suppers Thin pillowcase (some albergues may provide pillows which aren’t always as clean as you would like, some don’t provide any pillows, just stuff the case with your clothes) Earplugs if you are sensitive to snorers It’s a good idea to keep a small stash of dried fruit or nuts – some kind of high-energy snack.
What guidebooks, maps, apps or GPS do I need? A brief summary of the information resources that are out there. Expand Many of the Camino routes are well way-marked so you could manage without any maps or books but a guidebook would be helpful, in particular for locating accommodation and appreciating historical and cultural aspects of the pilgrimage. There are a variety of guidebooks and maps available and we stock the most popular ones in our online shop. There are also several websites that break down the routes into stages and provide information about the route (such as elevation maps) and accommodation. Examples of these are http://www.mundicamino.com/los-caminos/ http://www.gronze.com/ http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es/ Please see the Pilgrim forum run by Ivar Rekve for various threads on using GPS for way-finding. The Pilgrim forum has no specific thread for apps, but search using keyword "apps". There are many apps available for route-finding and services, including accommodation. These can be found at the Apple and Android app stores, or at websites like these: Alertcops: free safety app The Way of St James app: free and comprehensive app for the Camino Francés Wise Pilgrim's online itinerary builder and their app Camino companion free app A personal scheduler free app This list is simply to indicate a selection of what is available. We haven't used or reviewed any of these apps so can't recommend any one in particular.
What do I do for water on the Camino? How much to carry with you, where is and is not safe to drink from. Expand On most sections of the Camino Francés you are unlikely to need carry more than 1 litre of water at any time because there are many places along the route to refill your bottle or buy drinks. However, on remoter routes, or in very warm weather, or on stretches of the Francés where there are longer gaps between water supplies, such as crossing the Pyrenees or the meseta, it is advisable to carry 2 litres. Always check in your guidebook prior to setting out each day to see what water refill points are available. Tap water in France is generally safe to drink, however a few smaller communities are not connected to the mains. You will find public taps, drinking fountains and bars/cafes on the way where you can refill your water bottles. Many pilgrim guides also state that all French cemeteries have a tap which is safe to drink from but recent reports suggest that such water has caused illness. If in any doubt you should ask: L'eau (du robinet) est-elle potable? Is the (tap) water drinkable? Tap water in Spain is generally safe to drink in the major cities, indeed some places, such as Madrid and Granada, pride themselves on the exceptional quality of their water supply. Elsewhere the quality of water may vary. Some coastal areas rely on desalinated water which can taste quite unpleasant. Other areas rely on underground tanks for water if the mains supply gets interrupted. In more remote areas it is best to stick to bottled water unless you are sure the tap water is safe. Ask: ¿Es potable el agua (del grifo)? Is the (tap) water drinkable? As in France, you will find drinking fountains and bars where you can refill your water bottle. If a fountain is for human consumption it should have a sign saying Agua Potable, if not drinkable No Potable or Sin Purificación. ¿Es potable el agua (de la fuente)? Is the (fountain) water drinkable? Please don’t drink out of rivers or streams, however temptingly cool and clear they look, since many harbour bacteria or parasites that can cause stomach upsets.
Bedbugs on the Camino Advice about what to do to avoid them, and what do to if you've been bitten. Expand All albergues are well aware of the problem of potential bedbug infestation and most have procedures in place to deal with outbreaks and to assist pilgrims who have come into contact with bedbugs. Please do not be deterred from embarking on pilgrimage by the thought of bedbugs, most pilgrims report having no contact with them at all during their journey. Bedbugs are not a unique feature of the Camino, but are found the world over, from the lowliest hostel to the most luxurious hotels. They are not a sign of poor cleanliness but are simply an unwelcome consequence of the enormous rise in global travel in recent years. Here are some bedbug facts to arm yourself with before you go. Bedbugs are small, flat, apple-pip shaped insects that feed on human or animal blood. They tend to hide away in dark areas such as bed frames during daytime but come out at night to feed, attracted by the carbon dioxide emitted by sleeping humans. They are not restricted to beds but can infest furniture and fixtures too. Bedbugs are not known to transmit diseases in temperate climates, but for some people their bites leave painful and itchy welts. Occasionally people have more severe allergic reactions to bites and need medical attention. Bites are often in a distinctive line or zig zag pattern and because the insects are attracted to carbon dioxide in the breath, are often mostly visible around the neck and upper chest. Bedbugs can crawl into bags, luggage, sleeping bags or clothing while you sleep, thereby hitching a lift to the next hostel. Once bedbugs are established in a dormitory, the authorities have to be notified and the albergue shut down for fumigation. So, what can you do to minimise your risks? Before you go: You can buy undersheets or sleeping bags that have been chemically treated to repel bedbugs. Some people recommend silk liners as insects find it hard to penetrate silk, others spray their sleeping bags and rucksacks with insecticide. In most cases the chemical treatments are permethrin-based. Please take advice from the retailer and always read and follow the manufacturer's instructions if you decide to spray any kit, since permethrin is very toxic to cats and aquatic creatures, and can be toxic in liquid form to humans by skin contact or inhalation. Pack a small torch and consider bringing anti-histamine pills if you normally use these at home for insect bites. On Camino: When you arrive at an albergue, examine the bunk frame, mattress and any pillows, paying particular attention to cracks, joints and seams. Use a torch if necessary. You are looking for spots of blood, clusters of black specks, cast-off skins and live bedbugs. Also check any cracks in nearby walls or other furniture for tell-tale signs. If you find anything untoward, please inform the hospitalero discreetly. If you cannot be moved into another room then you should go to another albergue. Don't spray chemicals in the albergue to try to deal with it yourself. Don't put your rucksack on or under or against the bed. Keep your rucksack tightly closed when you are not unpacking or packing. Consider sealing it in a plastic bag overnight. Try to keep covered up in bed since bedbugs usually feed on exposed skin. Shake out your sleeping bag thoroughly in the morning before packing it. If you have been bitten: Tell the hospitalero immediately and discreetly. If you do not notice the bites until you have walked on, tell the hospitalero at the next albergue that you stay at. They should be able to assist you with washing and treating your pack and possessions and may put you in a segregated room to avoid further spread of bugs. Try not to scratch itchy bites. Get advice and treatment from the local pharmacy, or if you feel unwell, seek medical attention. If you don't have hospitalero assistance, wash all your clothes in hot water and if available, use a dryer on a hot setting. Outdoors, take everything out of your rucksack, turn it inside out and open all pockets and leave in the sun for a few hours. You can spray your pack with insecticide (only use according to instructions and keep away from food stuffs and eating utensils, water sources and animals) before leaving in the sun. When you get home, do not bring your rucksack indoors, but keep sealed in a plastic bag in a shed or garage. Wash and tumble dry all your clothes at high temperature, carefully check other items, spray with insecticide if necessary. Alternatively, wrap whole bag in plastic and leave in a freezer at -17.8C (0F) for 4 days. You can see pictures and information on bedbugs and signs of infestation here and bites here. Please remember, this is likely to be the closest you will ever get to them!